Woven Wisdom: Ancient Indigenous Knowledge of Paithani Handlooms and the Struggle for Authenticity in the Age of Power looms

Abstract

The Paithani saree, an identity of Maharashtra’s textile heritage, holds Geographical Indication (GI) status since 2010, for its exquisite handwoven craftsmanship and distinct aesthetic rooted in centuries-old traditions. Despite its Geographical Indication (GI) status, the authenticity of Paithani sarees is threatened by the proliferation of power-loom imitations that flood contemporary markets, which undermine the craft’s authenticity as well as economic and cultural value. This article examines the heritage of authentic Paithani weaving, the challenges posed by market fakes, and the failure of GI protection and identifies key threats to Paithani’s sustainability and need of preservation of the Indian ancient knowledge. The Paithani handloom represents a living repository of India’s Indigenous Knowledge Systems (IKS), where artistic expression and scientific precision intertwine through the ancient interlocking tapestry technique. Each handcrafted Paithani embodies generations of indigenous technological wisdom, ecological balance, and cultural symbolism. However, the growing influx of power loom imitations threatens to dilute this heritage, eroding the cognitive and aesthetic depth that defines authentic Paithani weaving. Preserving Paithani is thus vital to sustaining not only a textile craft but a profound indigenous knowledge tradition. This paper critically examines the causes behind this failure, including limited legal literacy among artisans, lack of regulatory enforcement, institutional gaps, and most notably, consumer unawareness of what constitutes an authentic Paithani. Field research, interviews with weavers, cooperatives and cluster heads, and market stakeholders reveal how fakes reduce the perceived value of genuine handloom saris, and distort consumer trust. The study underscores the urgent need for policy reform, educational outreach, digital certification systems, and market regulation to protect the integrity of the GI tag. Ultimately, preserving Paithani weaving requires not just protecting a product but defending a living heritage and ensuring its sustainable transmission to future generations. The research article follows the primary, qualitative, descriptive data collection method from weavers and buyers of Paithani to recommend the possible suggestions.